The Library (Koh Samui)

14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach
Bo Phut
Koh Samui

For lunch: excellent tom yum goong, with huge prawns and a delicate balance of sensuous offerings on the palate. Garlic- and Thai chili-infused fish sauce brings the lunch to a roaring finish.

For dinner: soft-shell crab salad, and lobster spaghetti with fish roe and olio di peperoncino.

3 stars to the tom yum goong.

Thai noodles

Thai noodles.

Lotus Thai

Location: Lotus Thai (荷花泰菜). Guomao, Beijing.
Tom Yum Soup, Chinese broccoli, sauteed pork neck and cheeks, steamed
fish with Thai lemongrass soup, lime slices, spring onion, fish sauce,
and chili.
The fish dish exhibited a well-balanced confluence of natural flavors,
with the spices and lemongrass mollified by the sweetness of the fish
sauce. The Tom Yum was delicious, with plenty of fresh shrimps bathing
idly in a robust, pungent soup base. Food-wise, Lotus Thai delivered,
but the experience was hampered by its flawed architectural design --
the restaurant opened to a bank of escalators in a less-than-perfectly
heated atrium. As chilly air circulated within the space, the dishes
-- except the heated steamed fish -- soon felt like they had been
sitting at the k counter for way too long.

Bali Papaya

Location: Bali Papaya. Sanlitun, Beijing.
Dishes: Chicken satays, assorted appetizers, tom yum king prawn soup.
The food is reasonable but fails to impress. With the exception of
Thai chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves, which is simply too dry and
chewy, everything seems to be in order. But the food lacks character,
and does not have the kind of playful or motherly touch that I so
often associate with Thai/SE Asian cuisine. Service is minimal, and
the waitresses aren't familiar with the supersized menu. At their
prices (not expensive, but not cheap either), Bali Papaya may have a
rough time competing with the other well-oiled offerings in this
vibrant part of Sanlitun.