G63, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City
17 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
Salumi sampler, semolina pasta with clams, squid and spicy tomato,
Granny Smith apple pizza with almond cream and rosemary gelato.
The sampler and the pasta were up to snuff, but given that Al Molo is
NYC superstar chef Michael White's flagship restaurant in Asia, I was
expecting much more.
The first two dishes aside, there was the apple pizza. Though thinly
crusted, cutting through it felt like trying to cut a brick with a
pair of mom's decade-old garment scissors. It tasted as though it has
been sitting in the freezer for far too long and was carelessly thrown
into the pizza oven (or the dreaded m-wave?!) to race to an edible
temperature. The rosemary gelato partially redeemed the dish with a
slight hint of floral accent, though its subtlety was quickly engulfed
by the brashness of the brick. Disastrous as it was, I would give
White benefit of the doubt, and will visit in a few months to see if the master
is able to right what I would imagine, at least by my book, to be a sinking ship.
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