Sun Heung Yuan (新香園/堅記)
G/F, 38 Kweilin Street, Sham Shui Po
Hong Kong
Pork feet in noodle soup, and toasted sandwich with scrambled eggs and beef. The pork feet was melt-in-your-mouth tender, though the noodles and the soup base (even with the addition of the juices of the braised pork feet) tasted a little bland. The sandwich, on the other hand, was a revelation. Unlike typical cha chan ting fare in Hong Kong, the meat here came neither from machine-ground beef nor from canned corned beef. Large chunks of rump and thick flanks were hand-cut, sauteed, and scrambled into fresh farm eggs. The result was a labor of love that had plenty of body and texture. Some chewing was required, but the laboring was a gastronomic joy as beef juices oozed astray in the mouth. This is one Hong Kong cha chan ting classic that nobody should miss.
Rating: 2 stars to the sandwich, for its perfect execution and good flavors.
