馬灣大街村中211及214號地下
Steamed baby pork ribs with shrimp paste (蝦醬蒸排骨), stir-fried eggplant with batter-fried grouper (鹹魚茄子石斑塊). Ma Wan, a distant island away from the hustle-bustle of Hong Kong's center city, was a fishing village before the plan for Hong Kong's new airport back in the 90s mandated the construction of a long suspension bridge that connects it with the center city. That long suspension bridge, now 8th longest in the world, ends at Ma Wan. The fishing village of Ma Wan, then without any meaningful transportation to it, suddenly became very accessible. New residential development sprouted up, including "Park Island", the all high-rise, 32-building residential behemoth that literally introduced a new city into this tiny fishing village. Ma Wan is now a bustling district with all the amenities of a modern metropolis, but some classic gems remain, including Fai Kee, a traditional Cantonese joint serving up home-style cooking at affordable prices. Fai Kee uses liberally salted fish and shrimp paste, two of the condiment staples in Hong Kong's fishing villages of the yesteryear. Fai Kee's shrimp paste, unlike the lame ones that consumers can find at supermarkets all over center city, erupts with intense, almost pungent, flavors of the sea. One could almost imagine the copious amount of shrimp shells and shrimp juices used to render that beautiful, almost provocatively feisty paste. While the imagery of the bucolic fishing village has long been punctuated by the unstoppable locomotion that is economic development, tidbits of the yesteryear endure on.
Rating: 2 stars to the steamed pork ribs with shrimp paste.
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