Location: Lotus Thai (荷花泰菜). Guomao, Beijing.
Tom Yum Soup, Chinese broccoli, sauteed pork neck and cheeks, steamed
fish with Thai lemongrass soup, lime slices, spring onion, fish sauce,
and chili.
The fish dish exhibited a well-balanced confluence of natural flavors,
with the spices and lemongrass mollified by the sweetness of the fish
sauce. The Tom Yum was delicious, with plenty of fresh shrimps bathing
idly in a robust, pungent soup base. Food-wise, Lotus Thai delivered,
but the experience was hampered by its flawed architectural design --
the restaurant opened to a bank of escalators in a less-than-perfectly
heated atrium. As chilly air circulated within the space, the dishes
-- except the heated steamed fish -- soon felt like they had been
sitting at the k counter for way too long.
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