Rules (London)

Rules
35 Maiden Lane
City of Westminster, WC2E7, United Kingdom

Roast leg of rabbit with puy lentils and dandelion salad, golden syrup
sponge pudding with custard, the bottomless Stilton plate, and a
bottle of 2007 CdR Les Violettes.

If the City's dining scene is guilty of wrapping itself in the blanket
of tradition and non-innovation, Rules, as the oldest restaurant in
the City, is inevitably the mother of them all. Yet, the food at Rules
seems to impart a sort of well-honed harmony amidst the intensely
rich, buttery flavors that are so emblematic of traditional English
cuisine.

The dandelion salad was characteristically bitter, but provided a
refreshing herbal counterpoint to the gamey flavors of the rabbit. The
rabbit retained plenty of moisture and juices after the roasting, and
came out soft and easy on the jaw. The sponge pudding was a meal in
itself. As the pudding started to absorb the silky custard and the
syrup, the concoction became so intensely flavored that what remained
of the bottle of light Rhone became watery and characterless by
comparison. The Stilton was delicious and fresh, but could barely
register its aromatics after the intensity of the pudding.

Rating: 1 star to the restaurant for its high-quality food and deference to traditional game cooking.