2010 Burger Shootout II: East Coast

After 2009's LA-Chicago Shootout and this April's Texas Shootout, fans have complained that there was a dearth of representation from the burger boys of the east. And thus your voice is heard: over a period of 10 days, I have trekked along I-95 in search of the good stack. And here are my rankings:

1 (tied). Shorty's 32 (New York, NY)

1 (tied). Stella (Boston, MA)

3. The Breslin (New York, NY)

4. DBGB (New York, NY)

5. Goodburger (New York, NY)

6. Five Napkin (New York, NY)

7. Audubon Circle (Boston, MA)

8. Tunnicliff's Tavern (Washington, DC)

9. uburger (Boston, MA)

Goodburger stands out with its charred aromatics and assertion to be green and certifiably organic. The lamb burger at The Breslin has basically eliminated my heretofore bias against non-beef burgers. Shorty's 32 and DBGB show how to do serious food in a laid-back environment. Due to time constraints I wasn't able to revisit The Burger Joint at Le Parker Meridien or Mr. Bartley's (who was closed on the day I visited, on June 1, allegedly so that he could spend more time coaching and prepping Elena Kagan, a Mr. B regular, for the upcoming confirmation hearings), or try out Shake Shack which my friends in the City have raved time and again. Nevertheless, I am glad to report that the burger scene in the east coast is alive and well and, with the gastro-pub movement thriving (The Breslin, Spotted Pig and DBGB being good examples), even better days shall come.

The Breslin (New York, NY)

20 W 29th St
New York, NY 10001
(212) 679-1939
thebreslin.com

 

Burger: the lamb burger
Architecture: bun, red onions, feta cheese, lamb patty, bun.

 

The sour-dough provided a crunchy, assertive balance to the creamy
feta. Upon mastication, the lamb patty slowly evolved -- first, a hint
of floral herbs and then, an explosion of lamb flavors. The patty was
so juicy that the sour-dough could barely contain it. It was simply
fantasyland for those who enjoy lamb meat. Washed down with the
Breslin Aberdeen, a hand-pumped brew with a hint of durian and yuca,
the meal was simply one of a kind. This is the kind of burgers that
have no equal.

Rating: 1 star to the lamb burger.

Goodburger (New York, NY)

Goodburger
870 Broadway
New York, NY 10003
(212) 529-9100
www.goodburgerny.com

Burger: cheeseburger.
Architecture: bun, L&T, chopped pickles, cheese, patty, bun.

Goodburger's burgers stand out for one reason: according to its
advertisements and website, the entire stack is certified green and
organic. But according to me, its burgers stood out because they were
well charred, yielding a delectable, smoky nose and a crusty chew. The
bun was grilled to yield a faint, cute set of grill marks and just the
suitable amount of toasty aromatics. Even though I had The Breslin's lamb
burger merely half an hour ago, this cheeseburger was so good that
nothing was left for the dogs.

A private vegetarian kitchen

Zucchini puree, topped with crotons and
cream drizzles; spinach quiche with a wholegrain crust.

The puree, served hot, was delicate but not runny. Red chili flakes
added a subtle layer of zest and heat. Amazingly, the crust
of the quiche was made without a single dab of butter. After
three pieces of quiche, I was barely able to move. But with a great
ambiance and all the great company, why should I?

Tunnicliff's Tavern (Washington, DC)

Tunnicliff's Tavern
222 7th Street SE
Washington, DC 20003
(202) 544-5680

Burger: the Bacon Cheeseburger.
Architecture: bun, bacon, pickles, Cheddar, patty, tomato, lettuce, bun.

Tunnicliff's, located just across the street from East Market, is a DC
institution. Known for good booze and big burgers, this place has been
a fixture in Capitol Hill forever, attracting politicians, Hill staff,
and others who just want to relax and have a good time. The bacon
cheeseburger was a good old-fashioned American burger with plenty of
flavorful trappings. Even though it arrived at the table a little more
cooked than desired, the beef remained moist and juicy.

Sardis Pollo A La Brasa (Beltsville, MD)

Sardis
10433 Baltimore Avenue
Beltsville, MD 20705
(301) 595-3222
www.sardischicken.com

One Peruvian charbroiled chicken, rice and beans, fried plaintains,
green beans, fried yuca, fries -- to go. Great Peruvian food at great
prices. And Bryan approved.

Salon de Ning (New York, NY)

Salon de Ning at the Peninsula
700 5th Ave
New York, NY 10019
(212) 956-2888

Sashimi, cheese bread, shrimp cocktail. Nobody comes here for the food
(which, to be fair, is not bad, but one pays a king's ransom for the
king's servant). Everyone comes here for the view (view of Fifth and
the rest of midtown east), the vibe (plenty of seriously beautiful
people), and the opportunity to splurge on the company Amex (thanks
Hiro!).

DBGB (New York, NY)

DBGB
299 Bowery St
New York, NY 10003
(212) 933-5300
www.danielnyc.com/dbgb.html

Burger: The "Frenchie"
Architecture: bun, mustard dressing, arugula, bacon, compote, morbier
cheese, patty, arugula, bun. Cornichon pickles on the side.

This was a serious gastropub fare. The bacon was a thick confit of
pork belly, while the compote was a sweet tomato-onion syrup. The bun
was a fresh brioche with pepper flakes on top. Overall, the stack was
well-balanced, especially with the compote moistening the confit. The
bun was fresh and enjoyable all by itself. The patty was a little
small (listed as 6 ounces, but felt less) but was fortified by the
thrust of the confit. The meal started with Aztec, a stupendous
cocktail with premium tequila, jalapeno, crema de mezcal, cucumber,
lime juice, and agave syrup. The meal ended with a Malibu-like
concoction called Thai libation, with rum, lemon grass, thai chili and
coconut. Before the check, a gigantic limoncello-hazelnut sundae was
ordered, with heaps of praline wafer, hazelnut cookies, meringue,
lemon sauce, whipped cream.

Rating: 1 star to the restaurant for its creative menu, bar creations, good food, and jolly good atmosphere.

Nespresso Boutique Bar (New York, NY)

Nespresso Boutique Bar
761 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10021
http://www.nespresso.com/

Tiramisu, iced macchiato. Both ordered items were average, but the
ambiance was mellow, nice and hip (though this hipness seems to
primarily attract a post-retirement, Upper East Side crowd). The wait
staff was professional -- knowledgeable about the menu items and eager
to strike up a conversation without being intrusive.

Shorty's 32 (New York, NY)

Shorty's 32
199 Prince Street
New York, NY 10021
(212) 375-8275

Architecture: bun, Cheddar, patty, bun. L&T, red onions, pickles on the side.
Fries with ketchup.

The superstar of this juicy, plump burger was the beef: it was
meticulously grilled, with a luscious pink center. Perfection was
tempered by the relative dryness of the bun which tasted and felt like
dried sponge. The Ice Pick -- an vodka iced tea with a spicy cinnamon
touch and a mint finish -- was majestic and was able to cut through
the beef fat. Manned by Josh Eden, a veteren under Jean-Georges,
Shorty's 32 is definitely a burger star in Gotham City.

Rating: 1 star to the burger.

Audubon Circle (Boston, MA)

Audobon Circle
838 Beacon Street
Boston, MA
(617) 421-1910

Architecture: bun, aged Cheddar, patty, bun. L&T and pickles on the
side. Home fries with BBQ tomato sauce.

This burger was feisty and animated. The bun, well toasted,
encapsulated a cow's worth of bovine madness. The beef was succulent,
with plenty of beefy tones and juices. The Cheddar came to the table
unmelted, but soon melted to yield this mesmerizing, glorious glow.
The fries were excellent, as were the sauce. The only letdown was the
lettuce, which was just a tinge too bitter and not altogether fresh,
in my opinion. Nevertheless, this place was infinitely better than the
better-known uburger down the street, if only for its dedication and
seriousness to food, and a legitimate contender for the best stack in
Boston.

uburger (Boston, MA)

Uburger
636 Beacon Street
Boston, MA 02115
(617) 536-0448

Architecture: bun, thousand-island dressing, lettuce shreds, tomato
slices, cheese, beef, onions, pickle slices, bun.

The dinner roll was charred nicely, with a tinge of burnt complexity.
The stack was well balanced, though it severely lacked any beefy
taste. When the beefy taste finally emerged, it was almost too peppery
and manufactured.

Tamarind Bay (Cambridge, MA)

Tamarind Bay
75 Winthrop Street
Cambridge, MA 02138-5927
(617) 491-4552

Dishes: Murgh Angar Bedgi (chicken cubes marinated in yogurt and bedgi
chili; not shown); Panner Shola (Indian cheese with green pepper and
onions in red chili and tomato sauce); Achari Jhinga (shrimp cooked in
pickled spices); Mysore Chili Chicken (chicken in curry leaf); bread
basket.

Stella (Boston, MA)

Stella Restaurant
1525 Washington Street
Boston, MA 02118
(617) 247-7747
http://www.bostonstella.com/

Architecture: bun, cheese, bacon, caramelized onions, patty, bun. L&T
on the side.

This was handily one of the best burger I had all year. The beef was
cooked to perfection (medium, with a robust pink in center), with a
hint of peppercorns and charcoal. The buttered brioche was similarly
broiled over open fire, yielding a feisty carb rendition that stood up
to the beef. Washed down with a couple of excellent bloody marys, the
burger at Stella was simply divine, with a good initial bite and a
lingering beefy finish. This is not to be missed.

Rating: 1 star to the burger.

Five Napkin Burger (New York, NY)

Five Napkin Burger
Frnt 1, 630 9th Avenue
New York, NY 10036-4754
(212) 757-2277
http://www.fivenapkinburger.com/

The Original, Lobster Roll Sliders.

Architecture (the Original): bun, rosemary aioli, caramelized onions,
gruyere, patty, bun.

Soft, slightly toasted bun engulfed a massive 10-oz. cow. The
caramelized onion accentuated the glory of the bovine power. The
lobster roll slider was fresh but just a little too refrigerated for
my taste. The whole meal was washed off with a couple of Anchor Steam,
which provided a sweet, almost caramel overtone to the gigantic punch
of the Original. This is one of the better burger joints in the City,
and most definitely a welcoming, regal addition to Hell's Kitchen.